2010-07-25

National Parks near Kuching, Part II

Arriving Bako was a small challenge of course. First to find the bus (and arguing with some taxi drivers about the price) and then the 1 hours ride to the Park Headquarters and then the exhilarating boat ride (47Rm)to the park itself. I was lucky to get Andy as a companion from the Headquarters and share the boat with me. I was feeling miserable when I arrived and Andy did his best to cheer me up.

The arrival at the Park was hot and the reception where we got our keys was kinda messy. Felt more like the personnel were not really coping with the amount of visitors there was during the days. This was also seen in the hostels. It was incredibly hot on our room (there were 2 fans, but still) and the windows need to be closed because of the nasty monkeys. Also, the room of four beds was filthy. I don´t know when it was cleaned the last time, the floor was black and the previous guests had left a huge amount of trash (empty water bottles, tissues, paper) under the beds. The toilets were malfunctioning and the showers were gross. During my trip, this had been the only time I had been upset about the filth. The 2 Canadian French girls I shared the room with were making my mood better, as well as Andy, Anna, Greg and Dounglas and others later on. I owe them big time!

Anna told us later that on arrival she did not get any information about the monkeys, or anything else for that matter. The macaques were the worse. they knew when there was just the right amount of people at the canteen, and then they stroke. Even if Andy was starting to be very qualified with the slingshot the canteen personnel used to scare the monkeys off. The problem with the monkeys was simply the ignorance- the day visitors thought monkeys were cute, started taking pictures and became easy targets with their snacks and water bottles in plastic bags in their hands.

Also, some people would have appreciated the info about really needing GOOD TREKKING SHOES around the park. We saw far too many day trippers wearing only flip flops, and that was just not healthy. Water was also needed more than average, because the heat was almost unbearable at some points. 1 liter per one hour, at least.

So, the overall view of the Park facilities and information was not too impressing. But the walks were! A massive amount of plants, wild flowers, various landscapes from mangrove forest to "moon scene" was present. The walks were well marked and one had to write down the track where one went indicating both leaving time and arrival to the facilities. The night walk was also a nice thing, but the groups tend to be a bit too big. The walk that I took part was a bit uninteresting because it was too hot, and the animals were deep in the forest. Andy told that the previous night walk had been more than excellent. I was not complaining because I had a nice chat with our guide.

When the temperature dropped, the proboscis monkeys arrived to the facilities and made it a joy for everyone.

2010-07-05

Kuching recommendations

It is a beautiful morning after along night rain in Kuching. I am sitting at the airport Starbucks, having my morning coffee and feeling incredibly lucky to have been in this city. Definitely, I will come back. As I am too exited about my flights home, I`ll just leave you with a lists of recommendations about some stuff I forgot before.

The airport is buzzing with the participants of the Rainforest Interhash and event I had never heard in my life before this. The hashers arrive around the world with their own clubs to run, and drink beer afterwards (the drinking club with a running problem) and seem to be very familiar, friendly and most groups wanted to adopt me immediately. Funny though, they have their own hash-names for the event, it is discouraged to use ones own real name.

The Constitution of the Hash House Harriers is recorded on a club registration card dated 1950:
-To promote physical fitness among our members
-To get rid of weekend hangovers
-To acquire a good thirst and to satisfy it in beer
-To persuade the older members that they are not as old as they feel

Apparently Hash events are a South East Asia thing, started as far as in 1938 in Kuala Lumpur by a group of blokes.

Ok. Back to the recommendations.

Books

The Help by Kathryn Stockett
Juliet, Naked by Nick Hornby (the same guy who wrote High Fidelity)

For the rest of the trip I decided to buy the John Irwing´s latest one "Last night on Twisted River", trusting that his charm will kick in this time as well. Then I bought also the new "traveller bible" after Life of Pi has been read over, Aravind Adiga´s "White Tiger". I have seen it now in the hands of many packbackers, so, I will have a go.

And whoever hangs around Green HIll in Kuching could go to test these places;
Aha Organic, an organinc cooking restaurant, VERY GOOD FOOD.
The Junk, restaurant, EXTREMELY GOOD FOOD.
Black Bean coffee, my place to have THE coffee in the mornings

2010-07-03

Weird animals



Bako and some other thoughs

After spending some days again in the rain forest, I have been thinking too much. My head feels like it´s exploding or heated up and partly I feel like the bottle of sparkling water that I bought today; the cap had been open, and all I got was not even a sound when I cracked the cork.

Do people care about people?
What keeps someone from helping each other?
When was the last time you helped someone without asking?
How come it is so hard to help strangers nowadays?
Do I have any friends anymore, who might help me, when I get in trouble in Finland?

In Bako National Park I had enough time to observe the visitors, and I started feeling better, from my last depression on the day I arrived. I can certainly say, that I hate the fat older people that complain about everything and wear their face upsidedown all the time, no matter what happens..and also complain if they do not see any animals next to the information center,just because they´re too lazy to walk further...or that who does not even look at your direction when it comes to sharing a boat or a van to get to civilization. AND I was happy to find people who with I can share my feelings now, when I hourly closer to the date I am leaving the country and arriving to my own..that is going to feel like a foreign to me, again. That is also very depressing.

It seems that most of the people at home, or who never have been traveling, does not understand the mixed feelings at all. Most of them do think this is just holiday, but the truth is that one has to be prepared every day to new challenges...even going out to have a breakfast can be a struggle in its own way. Not to mention the information gathering, booking tickets, getting all sorted out etc. And in the end it is a huge job. And then there´s all questions.

What is the reason for you to stay home or to travel?

2010-06-27

Toiletries

Now, to the shower. Which actually reminds me about the toiletries I brought with me and wanted to test on my trip. Here we go; a topic for a new blog entry.

OK, the washing cloth I did,was pretty much chapter 8 after the 2 weeks in Semporna...Had to throw it away, but the small hankies I made of 100% bamboo cloth are still working very well. Very useful indeed of for the toilet use!

Other toiletries I brought with me were the soaps, of which I forgot one at Jukkas place in Singapore, maybe even the best one, my shampoo..Anyway, I had to work my way through the rest organic soap bars. It was noticed that they attracted the fauna quite a lot. One morning we woke up in Pulau Derawan (in the Indonesian side, you remember?) and one of my soaps was missing. The only track was the half eaten leftovers with claw- and tooth marks on the other soap...maybe a rat had been curious about the soaps and took one sample to eat.

Other remarks on toiletries has been the oils that I normally have to use a lot in Finland. Not in here, only in very special occasions. It is so humid in here, that my skin feels fine. Except for my cuticles that keep to stay as dry as always. On the other hand I have gone back to the-way-back-in-Thailand- discovery and that is baby talcum. The best and useful method to feel refreshed a sweat free, just toss some of it (in your genitalia area and )all over your body, and voilá - you´ll feel totally fresh!

Make up is totally overestimated while traveling, but yesterday meeting Sallyanna after staying in the bushes for the past 3 days, I started thinking about looking nicer..I am in the Sarawak Capital goods sake...

The good sun lotion is very essential. I took the wrong turn in the beginning and tried to use the new Natuc lotion, that did not work at all. Not for me. I went to buy some Japanese stuff with factor 65 and that was working a bit better. It even had this menthol cooling effect in it. Nice! The rest of teh trip I have been using again my well trusted, tested and working Favora Sun Gel. Even if the factor is 15, it works wonders!

And now, totally, I need a shower!

National Parks near Kuching, part I

And finally some text in here too.
At the moment I feel lazy and even if I did wake up early enough to get myself to the famous Sunday Market of Kuching, I decided to sleep long (and maybe start to get used to the rhythm back in Finland). I still have the time for Sunday market when I get back from my last visit to National Parks.

My first stop was Gunung Gading National Park. A one and a half hours ride by bus to Lundu town and then a walk for half an hour. I was lucky to get there by nightfall and did a short walk around the forest before settling down to my hostel room. I was the only guest and facilities were good. I don´t mind bringing my own food and preparing it in a good kitchen and afterwards enjoying it on the porch, accompanied by writing a letter to Wajska. The next morning it was raining and there was no guides around, but the park personnel told me directions how to see the Rafflesia and I took my change to discover the world outside the plank walk. It paid off, as you can see in the pictures, and I did not even step on the buds!

I got a ride back to Lundu town with some workers going to the town office, got back to Kuching, and there had to negotiate a ride with a taxi to Kubah National Park.

All public transportation is very poor to that direction and the information just is not given to foreigners! The normal price for a one way trip is 40Rm and one old guy asked a taxi for me to take me there for 35Rm. That taxi guy was nice enough to give me his number to get myself back, but I found my own way, as you´ll read from the following chapters. Ok, all good when I reached the Park, only it was raining heavily, but what the heck, I got a real RAIN FOREST experience. The night was pretty much as I expected; alone in the hostel (which was even nicer than the previous one) but not as alone as I thought in the beginning...

I went to bed after inspecting the wounded grass hopper on the wall. I spotted a HUGE bug on ceiling over my bed, but I thought to leave it alone, because it might never bite me. I was too easy on that one...I woke up after some hours and the THING had made it´s way to my head end of the bed and was about to take the few steps and tangle in my hair. With the help of the kitchen tools I managed to get the bug (after a 20min fight, boy it was strong!!) out to the porch! Then I slept the rest of the night without interruptions. Hah, and the French guys in Kuching were talking about small bed bugs...

The next day started with less rain and I thought to get myself through the most popular Watefall trail. It was humid,and it was also scary to walk though the jungle on my own, thinking about all the animals that were probably lurking behind every tree, I just could not see them. The first encounter the previous day had been a red tailed squirrel, today it was a wild cat or a skunk on the road. I also saw a few smaller than small squirrels around the trees, big and colorful butterflies, a lot of insects and the flora was amazing. It took me more than 2 hours to reach the waterfalls as I was so intensely taking photos of everything.

On my way back I run into 2 other humans! I was surprised, and those people were staying in the hostel with me. They were from France, apparently, but they never told me that...It was a very awkward feeling to sleep under same roof with people who totally ignored you. It is a common, unwritten law among travelers that you at least say something to the people in the common area. You do not have to be the best friend in any way, but show some respect to the others, just say hello and tell/ask where you´re from and maybe change a few words about the trail or something, or leave the others think that at least they can ask something if there is a need to. That was a very strange encountering indeed and it did leave me with a lot of thoughts.

After the 2 nights I started my trip back to town. I thought to try my luck with hitchhiking back. At first I took a ride with a man who took me to the main road intersection and from there I got a ride with beautiful lady Sallyanna. I bought us drinks on our way back and we had a good conversation! She promised to take me shopping some local Sarawak layer cake next weekend before I start my trip back home!

Now, to the shower. Which actually reminds me about the toiletries I brought with me and wanted to test on my trip. Here we go; a topic for a new blog entry.

2010-06-20

Kalimantan Borneo ~ Sangatta

I have been thinking about my whole trip myself after Simone and I separated. I try my best of luck down by the memory lane and write about the trip before arriving in Kuching. To make the story more interesting to my dear readers, I will write it topless.

Since Simone left I was just trying to calm down, relax and get better. Before she went on her way, we did another trip to another hospital and to yet another doctor. THE hospital was one of the most expensive in town, with a nice lake inside the building, swan boats, fountains etc. The female doctor made the dame examination as the previous one, gave me a prescription, and this time the medication was mixed by hand and then put into small capsules, to be enjoyed 3 times a day. Unfortunately it was not that easy.

The next day I was still weak an my head was only slightly better. During my stay, I had been to Pondok Bambu- restaurant down the road next to our hotel, and got to know Helena who run the restaurant. After Helena, I met his brother Tommy, later another bro Hanz and their mother... They all suggested me to see a lady who is good in curing illnesses using traditional methods. There I went.

The modest Muslim lady was concerned about my situation and really wanted to cure me. She gave ma a good traditional massage with herb oils and some chanting. Later she took me into their living room saying she wants to give some more treatments. Tommy translated to me that she was asking what have I had wrong with my stomach lately... The lady took some more oils, herbs, vegetables like onion and carrots and made a mixture of these. With the mixture she then treated my joints and ears and finally pulled the bad spirits out of me. She told me that I had been crossing some bad energies on my way in Borneo and those had started to follow me, that was the reason of the headache. The next morning I should feel better and if not, she would treat me again. She also said that if I did not come to see her now, my travel would have stopped there.

The next morning the headache was gone, and still is.

The rest of the time in Sangatta continued with good conversations, drinking good coffee with friendly laughters. I was totally adopted by this wonderful Chinese family and the sisters from Warung Bone3. I was almost spoiled, getting free coffee, breakfast, food, took me to fishing, gave me rides on scooter...you name it. I wish I am able to give as much of myself when I have some visitors the next time!

On my last night I wanted to help on my own to promote Pondok Bambu. I told Helena to ask her youngest brother to make some flyers that I could give to people while walking to the hotspot with my laptop. People were REALLY amazed to see a WHITE person handing out something and they were curious...I haven´t heard yet if someone came after the promotion but I hope to find out soon. I mean, what the heck- those people were shouting after me anyway, why not get some fun out of it.

~ ~ ~

The day when I left came too soon. I was crying on my way in the bus, because it was again a stress to be moving after such a nice time in a small town, even if I did not see the orangutans - I got something 10 times better; FRIENDS.